The lapels on a jacket are the folded pieces of cloth that span the chest vertically from around the belly to around the shoulder. The lapel itself is separated from the collar by the stitching where they both meet. There are three types of lapels: notch, peak, and shawl.
Unlike pockets or buttons, lapels have no functional use on today’s formal attire. This doesn’t mean you should forego their consideration when buying a suit. Each type of lapel carries with it a different aura it will give its wearer, as well as all being a different level of formality. Some lapels are more appropriate than others for certain situations. We’ll discuss all of this here.
Notch
Notch lapels are characterized by a triangle shaped notch. The triangle points inward towards the wearer. These lapels are the most common of the three and are the standard for business suits, leisure suits, and sports jackets. Notch lapels are also the most casual of the three making them inappropriate on jackets that demand more formality; double breasted jackets or black-tie attire such as dinner jackets and tuxedos.
Notch lapels may be the most casual but this doesn’t mean they aren’t versatile and can’t be worn in formal settings. They can be worn in any business setting and are as appropriate on an intern as they are on the CEO.
Choose notch lapels when: Picking out your first few suits. Notch lapels are the quiet confidence; the intern’s interview, the man who’s competent but still learning, or for the well experienced gentleman who would rather exert his charisma than his power.
Peak
Also referred to as peaked or point lapels, peak lapels are so called because they form a peak or ridge where the lapel meets the collar, and they point toward the shoulders. Peak lapels are more formal than notch lapels and, in a way, the most versatile of the three types altogether. They can be worn on all types of business suits, and both black-tie and white-tie attire. Even leisure suits nowadays.
Because of their formal nature, peak lapels aren’t often seen on casual suits, made of linen or tweed for example, which are traditionally for more leisurely activity. However, in this day and age more and more men are becoming sartorially minded, dressing up by choice rather than just necessity, and they are looking for ways to express themselves in a way that sets them apart from the stuffy style rules of old. Due to this, you might find some more formal details such as peak lapels on casual jackets. I don’t recommend doing this if attending an event or job with an established dress code but, if done at one’s leisure, there’s really nothing wrong with it.
Choose peak lapels when: feeling bold, meaning business, giving an aura of authority and expertise, letting the world know you’re not to be trifled with. For the man who is an influencer in the courtroom or boardroom, not Instagram.
Shawl
Also known as a shawl collar or roll collar. A shawl lapel has no notch or peaks but instead the folded cloth forming the shawl lapel is rounded and unbroken from the belly to all the way around the wearer’s neck. There is no stitching that separates the lapel and collar like on a notch or peak lapel.
For men, a shawl lapel is only appropriate on tuxedos, dinner jackets, and black tie attire. This makes it the most formal of the three lapel styles. Even with men now wearing more unconventional suits to show off their unique style, shawl lapels would look incredibly odd on a man’s regular business suit due to its strict traditional and formal usage. Fun fact: women aren’t held to this standard since traditionally they were not suited during formal events, and so, it is acceptable and common for women to have a shawl lapel on their business jacket without it looking strange. Chalk up a win for the ladies!
Wear shawl lapels when: rocking that black tie attire, respectfully adhering to the norms, not trying too hard. If you ever wanted to feel like James Bond, this is the place to be.
Conclusion
It is important to consider which type of lapel you should wear based on your outfit and which sort of event you will be attending in it. Or, simply which look you’d like to convey to those around you. Do you have a favorite type of lapel to wear?