“Clothes make the man. Especially the pockets.” – Ljupka Cvetanova, The New Land
Jacket pockets have evolved over the last few centuries. For most of history, men and women utilized bags or attached pouches to their belts in order carry money and other items. Pockets evolved as a way to keep your property safer from criminals, as it was easier to snatch an external pouch off of someone’s belt than it was to reach inside the clothing itself (though the term “pickpocket” suggests that thieves’ ability to steal evolved right along with the clothing).
Today we will just be focusing on the external pockets visible on men’s jackets. This article will not include internal pockets that cannot be seen without opening the jacket.
Patch Pockets
The least formal type of pocket. Commonly seen on casual jackets like a sport coat or a tweed. This pocket is externally sewn to the outside of the jacket using a piece of fabric separate from the rest of the jacket itself. Patch pockets can make an otherwise formal business jacket a bit less stiff. I have even seen men wear a jacket that sports both patch pockets and peak lapels (the most formal type of lapel), creating a very unique look in terms of formality.
Patch pockets may come with or without a flap.
Flap Pockets
The most common and standard type of jacket pocket. The opening to the pocket is on the outside on the jacket but the pocket itself is sewn internally. The pocket opening is protected by a flap of fabric constructed from the same fabric as the rest of the jacket. The flap helps keep the contents of the pocket from falling out and will also keep out the rain.
Flap pockets are the middle ground in terms of formality. You’ll find these pockets on both casual and business appropriate jackets, from tweed and linen to worsted wool.
Jetted Pockets
The most formal type of pocket- usually worn on dinner jackets and tuxedos due to their minimalistic nature. The absence of a flap or external patched on pocket creates the sleek look desirable for black tie and similar attire. You can still find jetted pockets on very formal business suits (or perhaps its the pockets that help make them so formal in the first place).
Like the flap pocket, it is sewn to the inside of the jacket but the outside opening is no more than a slit in the fabric. In a pinch, some men recommend tucking the flaps in to the pockets to give the appearance of a more formal outfit.
Ticket Pocket
A ticket pocket is a smaller flap or jetted pocket, typically located above the right hip pocket on a jacket. There are conflicting theories on how the ticket pocket originated: the most prevalent say they were used to hold train tickets back in the day, allowing the passenger easy access to their ticket when asked to produce it. Other sources trace the ticket pocket back further than this, citing that ticket pockets were already popular with equestrians for easy access to coins when paying tolls and this functionality naturally evolved for ticket use.
If you are tall or otherwise have a long torso you should consider wearing a jacket with a ticket pocket. It will help fill in the space on your jacket and visually balance out your height.
Breast Pocket
Found on the upper left breast, these pockets can either be internal or a patch pocket. They are typically flap-less but some suit jacket breast pockets do sport flaps. Most jackets will feature a breast pocket regardless of formality.
The breast pocket is traditionally where a man kept his handkerchief back before disposable tissues and public restrooms were so common. Its also said that it allowed him the opportunity to be a gentleman if a specific situation arose- the chance to offer a clean, easily accessible handkerchief to a lady in distress. Today, most men will either leave their breast pocket empty or adorn it with a tasteful pocket square that complements their tie.
Men may also decide to put their sunglasses there when not in use, or a pen. Whatever you decide to put on the breast pocket, make sure it isn’t bulky so your jacket continues to lay smoothly over your chest.
Slanted Pockets
This is a feature of some casual jackets and one that finds its origins, like many styling details, in horseback riding. Slanted pockets make it easier to reach into your pocket while sporting and also provides the advantage of making the pockets parallel to the ground while leaning forward on the horse, better securing any contents from falling out.
Slanted pockets will make you appear taller as they will draw someone’s visual directly up the body. This makes them an advantageous feature on a jacket for shorter or average height men if they wish to visually add some height to themselves. Very tall men may want to forego the slanted pockets.
Conclusion
Pockets, like any element on a jacket, are not an insignificant detail. Always consider the pockets whether you are buying off-the-rack or making decisions for your made-to-measure or bespoke suiting. Just like lapels or vents, different types of pockets work better for different circumstances, and will be one of the many elements that play a part in your overall look.