The world of menswear can be a confusing one. There seems to be a lot of rules and regulations on something as simple as wearing clothes. Truthfully, some of these rules are obsolete while others are still considered solid guidance. Where do these rules come from and why do they apply? Who’s got the time to look up what’s appropriate every time you need to head out the door?
Actually, I make the time for that.
But that’s because menswear is my passion, which isn’t the case for the everyday man. So I’ve made this not all-inclusive list to combat some misinformation and common styling mistakes. Some of these sections could be entire articles all on their own, but for the purpose of this particular post I’ll be sticking with the meat and potatoes of information for each one.
Fastening the bottom button of your jacket
One of the largest misconceptions I’ve heard time and again over the years is that the practice of never fastening your bottom button is nothing more than an arbitrary rule made up by fashion snobs who believe it just looks better that way.
Gentlemen, this is not the case.
The reason why you should leave it undone is because the bottom button on jackets that cut away (typically single-breasted jackets) do not actually line up with its corresponding button hole as the top buttons do. This causes it to pull awkwardly on the jacket and create a crease or bulge when fastened. This creasing may not be huge but it will be unattractive and bring attention to your stomach. You may have heard of the “sometimes, always, never” rule (pictured in the graphic above). The rule provides guidance on when to fasten specific buttons on your jacket, beginning with the top button. The reason why there is always at least one button to fasten is because jackets are specifically tailored to your body when buttoned, so opening your jacket does not provide as nice a silhouette.
So why even have a button that doesn’t line up with its corresponding button hole? There are a few theories on how this came to be, but my personal favorite points to British King Edward VII as the culprit. Edward was known for his voracious appetite and he eventually became so fat he could no longer fasten his bottom button. His loyal subjects, being super kind folks (and probably knowing it pays to stay on a king’s good side), had the good graces not to mention it, and decided they’d unfasten their bottom buttons so he wouldn’t feel bad about himself.
Note: This rule does not apply to double breasted jackets. On a DB jacket You may fasten the bottom button if you wish. Many men still choose to wear the bottom button on their DB jacket unfastened because they enjoy the asymmetry, or believe fastening it creates a “boxy” look, but this boils down to personal preference. Also, unfasten your SB jacket when taking a seat so the fabric doesn’t pull on the button.
Wearing suspenders and a belt at the same time
I equate this with the absolute goofiness of wearing socks with sandals. People understand how odd that looks because one is completely defeating the purpose of the other (socks defeat the purpose of open air footwear). Belts and suspenders both already fulfill the same utility; holding up your trousers to the desired position on your waist. When you wear both, you’re making the other completely pointless and it looks very silly. This mistake likely happens because the overwhelming majority of trousers have belt loops, so it may seem like something is missing when you only wear suspenders, and men try to fill that void. There are even suspenders marketed as being formal where they are meant to fasten by hooking onto the belt itself. Stay far, far away from these in particular.
The only instance where a belt with suspenders really makes sense is in a trades work setting. Often times, belts in these circumstances aren’t so much for holding up your trousers as they are for hooking additional tool belts to. Tools are heavy and will pull the belt down, so there is utility in wearing suspenders that clip onto the belt to counteract the added weight. Of course it should go without saying that a trades professional is probably less worried about their style prowess while on the job, and more focused on the efficiency of readily available tools.
Wearing suspenders on trousers with belt loops is not considered ideal, but it is by no means a bad look. It can be easily pulled off and its far superior to the belt and suspenders combo. Luckily, you don’t need to be a suave British secret agent to make this look work.
Matching your pocket square to your tie
Most men can’t be faulted for not knowing this one, especially when so many retail and online stores make a habit of selling matching pocket squares in a pack with a tie. It’s done in Hollywood shows and movies. Heck, just take a look at the picture above. That guy is wearing a nice suit and he’s probably also a pretty handsome dude. So it SEEMS like it should be correct. Ultimately though, your square should complement your tie. Not match it. A matching square is boring and requires no creativity. Its impressive in the regard that it helps you achieve two contradictory looks: like you’re trying too hard, or couldn’t be bothered to try at all. On the other hand, a complementing square is far more dapper, smart, and thoughtful looking.
Complementing the right square to your tie might seem a bit tricky at first. If you’re unsure what color and pattern pocket square would complement a specific tie, there’s a good chance that a plain white square in a TV fold, also known as a presidential fold, will do the trick. There are few outfits that this wouldn’t work for.
Showing your undershirt
Some men prefer to wear an undershirt if their body temperature tends to run a bit cold. Others because they are prone to sweating so an undershirt takes the brunt of the moisture while keeping your nice shirt clean and dry. No matter the reason why, an undershirt should be treated the same as your underwear: don’t show it. Showing undershirt is a common mistake that rears itself in two different ways:
– when unfastening your top button(s)
– when the silhouette of the shirt can be seen underneath the overshirt. This is more common with white dress shirts than with other colors
Keep the top buttons of your shirt closed when wearing an undershirt. Not doing so draws attention to your neck instead of your face and will break up the lining of your overshirt. If you would like to keep the top buttons of your shirt or polo unfastened, I recommend two things: don’t wear an undershirt or wear one with a deep enough V-neck that it won’t show.
The silhouette of an undershirt is problematic for much the same reason as unfastening your buttons; it is distracting by drawing attention away from your face. This is especially egregious if someone chooses to wear a tank top in lieu of a full shirt. So whats a man to do? The answer may seem counter-intuitive, but its to swap out your white undershirt for a light, heather gray colored undershirt. Light gray undershirts are far superior to white for this purpose. They don’t show (or are far less noticeable) underneath, and have the added bonus of showing less stains due to sweat around the armpit than a white one will. Some companies also produce skin tone colored undershirts, available in different shades. These specially made shirts may work for you if there is a shade close enough to your natural skin tone.
Wearing your trousers too long
Most men wear their trousers, no matter the fabric or style, quite long. This produces large folds or creases of fabric on top of the shoe in the front and, if long enough, may even nearly reach the ground in the back.
To put it in style terms, the amount of creasing created by the fabric resting on a pair of shoes is known as a break. More fabric equals more break. I won’t get too deep in the weeds here because pant breaks truly deserve their own article, but know that most men look great with a slight break or a medium break. A slight break exists when the bottoms of the trousers just slightly brush the shoelaces. A medium break has a bit more crease. It is considered conservative and timeless.
Years ago, I was at a shop for tailoring and I informed the consultant that I wished to have a medium break on my trousers. His immediate response was “but when you sit down your pants will rise up higher on your calf and won’t cover as much leg.” On one hand, this was quite frustrating because a man working in this sort of industry should know better. Clothes are tailored to fit you while standing, not sitting. At the same time it was a learning experience for me. I realized that perhaps the reason so many men are wearing their trousers so long is because they naturally share his same concern or because they are being given poor advice by people in his position.
Regardless of the reason, there is some solid rationale behind wearing trousers at the proper length. Lengthy trousers and pants will visually shorten you, making you appear less tall. I’ll go out on a limb and suggest most men probably don’t want that. The proper length will also help preserve your clothes. Longer pants are more likely to touch the ground, allowing them to drag through dirt, mud, water, etc. This means paying more money more often to get them cleaned, repaired, or replaced.
If a man can only have 1 suit, it should be black
Country singer Eric Church has a song called “Kill a Word” where he sings about wishing he had the ability to take kill certain negative words so hard they are removed completely from existence. Similarly, I wish I could do the same with this common misconception.
If you’ve been reading my blog in the short time that its been up you’ve probably already noticed one of the themes I keep pushing: versatility. Now don’t get me wrong. Black is a classic menswear color, but its not very versatile as a primary suit color.
When building your wardrobe it is highly advantageous to have pieces that can be appropriately worn for the most occasions possible, whereas black is good for only some circumstances in particular:
– as evening attire out to dinner or the club; to match the night
– award ceremonies or banquets, which can be quite formal and typically happen at night
– funerals; to show mourning and respect
– weddings; to match the formality
Outside of these occasions, black doesn’t really cut it. Its far too serious for a day at the office and it doesn’t look great under natural daylight. So what color should you strive for? Navy. Its the most versatile color in menswear; still appropriate for all the occasions listed above, yet far superior for so much more: interviews, white collar 9 to 5’s, business meetings, banquets, debates, dates, court, religious services, and so on. Navy jackets also double well as odd jackets, blazers, and sport coats. Charcoal is another versatile color that comes in a close second. So respectively, navy and charcoal should be your first and second suits. I wouldn’t even put black in top 5. In fact, Articles of Style, a respected menswear publication and online shop, only lists a black suit at #10 to buy for your foundational wardrobe. So much for #1…
Recommendations:
- Follow the Sometimes, Always, Never rule until sitting down, then unfasten your SB jacket
- If you choose to wear suspenders, go for button down instead of clip
- Start your pocket square game with a plain white cotton square in a TV fold. This will complement most ties
- If you wear undershirts, invest in some that are heather gray in color
- Tailoring trousers to the correct length doesn’t just apply to the dressy stuff. Tailors can also adjust your chinos and denim
- Looking for a good first suit? Drop the black. Go for a darker navy with no pattern or a subtle pattern
What are some style mistakes or misconceptions that you’ve noticed? Which ones are you guilty of?