Jacket Pocketing

“Clothes make the man. Especially the pockets.” – Ljupka Cvetanova, The New Land

Jacket pockets have evolved over the last few centuries. For most of history, men and women utilized bags or attached pouches to their belts in order carry money and other items. Pockets evolved as a way to keep your property safer from criminals, as it was easier to snatch an external pouch off of someone’s belt than it was to reach inside the clothing itself (though the term “pickpocket” suggests that thieves’ ability to steal evolved right along with the clothing).

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Jacket Venting

When looking around for a suit jacket, most men are only concerned with the detailing on the front of the jacket; the lapels, pocketing, number of buttons, and so on. But its important to pay attention to the back of the jacket too even though there is much less to consider here: the venting.

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Lapels

The lapels on a jacket are the folded pieces of cloth that span the chest vertically from around the belly to around the shoulder. The lapel itself is separated from the collar by the stitching where they both meet. There are three types of lapels: notch, peak, and shawl.

Unlike pockets or buttons, lapels have no functional use on today’s formal attire. This doesn’t mean you should forego their consideration when buying a suit. Each type of lapel carries with it a different aura it will give its wearer, as well as all being a different level of formality. Some lapels are more appropriate than others for certain situations. We’ll discuss all of this here.

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Gangster Gravitas

It’s the 20’s again folks.

From flappers with feathers to suffrage and progress, prohibition and protests to bootlegging and speakeasy’s… The 1920’s, glamorized in countless media, is a decade that has rightfully earned its space in the culture of the American mind. Part of that space belongs to none other than the early 20th century gangster.

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