“No wearing white after Labor Day.” Its a rule that every man and woman has heard at some point in their life regardless of how little they may actually pay attention to style. But does it still hold up as a rule today?
Common Style Mistakes Grooms Make at their Wedding
Its a feeling we all know. Looking back at old pictures of ourselves and thinking “What the heck was I thinking when I wore that??” Sure, there’s a certain amount of fun to be had in it when you look at random pictures of your past, but that’s not what you want to focus on when you pull out your wedding photo album to reminisce.
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Kingsman’s (Wrong) Definition of Oxfords
I love the movie Kingsman: The Secret Service. This film brings together well-dressed British spies, oddly specific alcoholic beverages, and makes church services more fun than you’ve ever seen them before. But there’s always been one thing that has bothered me.
In the scene where Galahad brings Eggsy into the secret weapons room in the Savile Row tailoring shop, he provides Eggsy with the wrong definition of oxford shoes. Not only is it wrong, the correct definition is the exact opposite of what he describes.
“An oxford is any formal shoe with open lacing. This additional decorative piece is called brogueing.”
“Oxfords, not brogues.” Eggsy responds, recalling the code phrase introduced earlier in the film.
In reality, an oxford is specifically a formal shoe with a closed lacing system with the eyelets attaching underneath the vamp. An open lacing system describes a derby shoe, or a blucher, and while less formal than an oxford it can still be considered a formal shoe. Galahad is at least correct about what broguing is: the decorative perforations along the shoe.
The “Oxfords, not brogues” statement is confusing. It implies that brogues are their own classification of shoe when in fact brogueing is a decorative detail that can be found on generally any form of men’s shoe: oxfords, derbies, monk straps, boots, etc. The phrase has also created negative connotations against brogues with those who may not have been previously educated on the difference, making it seem like they [brogues] are a lesser shoe which are not appropriate for formal wear, and less worthy of being worn. This couldn’t be further from the truth. You can read more about the differences in the basic shoe types here.
Conclusion
Kingsman: The Secret Service gets a lot of things right in its definitions and presentations of menswear, but that can’t be said for its definition of oxford shoes.
It’s true that the more brogueing a shoe has the less formal it is considered. But brogueing adds wonderful character to a shoe and gives you a chance to experiment with different looks. Brogueing is even considered more appropriate than more plain shoes for leisure situations and country wear, for which it was originally invented. The world of menswear would be much less interesting if everyone wore plain toed shoes.
A Basic Guide to Tartan Plaid
“Tartan plaid.” This is a phrase you are likely familiar with if you have ever spent any time looking into what colors or patterns are popular during the fall and winter seasons.
Jacket Pocketing
“Clothes make the man. Especially the pockets.” – Ljupka Cvetanova, The New Land
Jacket pockets have evolved over the last few centuries. For most of history, men and women utilized bags or attached pouches to their belts in order carry money and other items. Pockets evolved as a way to keep your property safer from criminals, as it was easier to snatch an external pouch off of someone’s belt than it was to reach inside the clothing itself (though the term “pickpocket” suggests that thieves’ ability to steal evolved right along with the clothing).
How to Dress for a Job Interview
“Fashion is a tool… to compete in life outside the home. People like you better, without knowing why, because people always react well to a person they like the looks of.” – Mary Quant
Jacket Venting
When looking around for a suit jacket, most men are only concerned with the detailing on the front of the jacket; the lapels, pocketing, number of buttons, and so on. But its important to pay attention to the back of the jacket too even though there is much less to consider here: the venting.
No Brown in Town
Today we’re focusing on a somewhat controversial rule. A thoroughly English rule.
“No brown in town.”
Lapels
The lapels on a jacket are the folded pieces of cloth that span the chest vertically from around the belly to around the shoulder. The lapel itself is separated from the collar by the stitching where they both meet. There are three types of lapels: notch, peak, and shawl.
Unlike pockets or buttons, lapels have no functional use on today’s formal attire. This doesn’t mean you should forego their consideration when buying a suit. Each type of lapel carries with it a different aura it will give its wearer, as well as all being a different level of formality. Some lapels are more appropriate than others for certain situations. We’ll discuss all of this here.
Spring and Summer Fabrics
Sporting the right fabrics for the right season will make a tremendous difference in your comfort level. Wearing shorts and a t-shirt isn’t the only way to stay cool during the hot months (and it certainly isn’t the best looking). In fact, making a few wise fabric choices will keep you looking and feeling fresh even if you decide a full suit will be your theme for the day.